Embroidery Craft from Lonely Planet Kyrgyzstan-Part-II

Kyrgyzstan Embroidery Craft-Part - II

Embroidery has always a craft to attract first attention and bring elegance to wearer. It has always taken a high position along all other craft and enjoyed a royal home depending upon its intricacy.

Across the world we see many types of embroidery. There is also a little bit influence of one over another.

The embroidery of Kyrgyzstan is one such embroidery, though from a lonely land yet has a remarkable presence on dresses of Kyrgyzstan. 

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Kyrgyz Embroidery

It has been a multifarious part of life for female craft which has commercialized. It can be seen everywhere in Kyrgyzstan, let it be decorated fabrics, mats, clothes, felt carpets, wall hangings and for the decoration of home, household articles, sacks and bags.

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Techniques Patterns stitches and types

Techniques are diverse. The most common stitch which is used looks like chain stitch of Kashmir kashidakari. Here this stitch is called “ilme”. It is done with a hooked needle which in India is called Ari and In Kyrgyzstan it is called “shibege”. In north Kyrgyz “ilme” is called “shibege”.

This chain stitch is used in different ways to make unique textures on the embroidery surface. In older works we see complete filling of pattern with stitches. In the older form of works, a chain winds the outline of the pattern and twist to fill inside in a spiral, with each stitch close to previous chain, until the entire pattern is filled. Sometimes a space in center is left and is filled with contour pattern.

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EMB.10 motifs

EMB.11 motifs

EMB.12 motifs and meanings

Afore written is quite similar to kashidakri of Kashmir but with different motifs.

Chain stitch is very old stitch and considered as ancient stitch and is the main stitch of Turkish people in the near East, Central Asia, and the Volga river area.

In krygyzstan, other stitches are: Ilmedos, and tuura saima which are very popular.Ilmedos stitches are laid in zigzag manner.

Tuura Saima is laid in parallel fashion. The background is little visible making the embroidery look like laces structure.

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EMB.14 contemporary article

EMB.15 contemporary article making process

EMB.16 contemporary article motif tracing

Aesthetics Appeal:

Kyrgyz embroidery is distinguished by its selection of shapes, rhythm, colors and precision of doing it. Preferred background for embroidery is dark color or black and embroidery is done in silk threads.

The other patterns for embroidery are narrow stripes completely filled in and round rosettes for dividing the work into sectors. The stripes are filled with bright triangles and crossing lines that highlight the beauty of embroidered items.

Clours of threads are usually, red, white, yellow, blue, and green. However, in older works we found softer tones of colours. Threads are dyed usually in natural colour.

Names of Embroidery: Names are mostly influenced by nomadic life. It is modtly on body parts, birds, household items, moon, and flower.

Example: Moon: Aidhyk

Karga Tyrmak: cow

Kochkor muyuz: Sheep horn

Kookor: container for koumiss

Gul: flower

We also see influences of applied arts. This we on wood crafts and carpets.

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EMB.18 pattern types

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EMB.20 Pattern types

EMB.21 pattern types

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EMB.23. embroidery skirt

Embroidery Tradition:

Girls are taught to embroidery at a young age. Very girl learns the art of embroidery. But only skilled crafts women develops and free hand draw patterns. Very skilled needle women draws pattern by memory and this is passes to generation one after another.

 Kyrgyz women embroidered with wool and cotton threads on felt, leather, velvet, cotton and woolen fabrics, and homespun cloth. Felt, leather, woolen cloth and wool threads are the most ancient Kyrgyz embroidery materials.

Special Features of the embroidery

The embroidered items have large patterns with plain and clear outlines.

Kyrgyz women decide the proportion of their motifs in accordance with the size of the patterned surface. They skillfully work on balance, rhythm, proportion, aesthetics, and colour selection and design development.

The design are often have two axises crossed at right angle, crossing at the center. This way a symmetrical four pointed or eight pointed composition is made.

Other motifs have diagonal opposed patterns. Patterns are arranged in stripes or edges by using a winding or interrupted stem.

Separate motifs branching from the stem are placed within the twist of the stem.

The patterns motifs are marked by soft and rounded shapes due to the type of stitches used. Angular geometrical patterns dominate in narrow patterned band of cloth, breastplates, in satin stitch and on women and on women huts (Kep Takiya).